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Margate
is the jewel
along the Kwa-Zulu
Natal South Coast
for those seeking a
memorable family
holiday, the wide
curve of the pale
sand and safe surf
rimmed with flats,
shops, hotels and
sun terraces. Beach
restaurants,
swimming pools,
paddling pools and
seasonal
entertainment add to
the attractions of
this vibrant town.
A leisurely meander
south from the beach
along the promenade
(which links up with
the main road)
provide sea breezes,
a fishing pier and
tidal pools. Across
the "Nkhongweni
River" (place of
entreaty) to the
north another set of
tidal pools lay of
Manaba Beach, where
sand dunes disappear
of in the distance.
English adventurer
Dick King and his
teenage Zulu tracker
Ndongeni changed the
course of history
along this route
with their Great
Ride of 1842, and
furthermore, the
pioneering
stop-by-stop of our
South Coast Railway
is an epic saga in
its own right. Both
are detailed in our
overview of the
entire South
Coast.
The first train
travellers to
witness the
iridescent blooms of
Hibiscus country
pulled into
Hibberdene in
1901, but the
embryonic village
was without its
present name until a
decade later and the
arrival of retired
Postmaster-General
Maxwell-Hibberd. In
true Colonial
fashion, a trading
store then hotel
heralded the birth
of this much-
visited holiday
destination. In
addition to its
safe, golden bathing
beaches, popular
seafront attractions
here include
Miniature Golf and
the waterborne rush
of Super Tube rides
if the former is too
sedate! Head
offshore on a
ski-boat expedition
for scuba diving or
deep-sea fishing
adventures, or
simply to enjoy the
thrill of the ride.
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Margate and
Surrounds
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During
winter, each June or July,
Hibberdene lookout point is
listed among the ‘hot-spots’
for catching awesome views
of the millions-strong
‘Greatest Shoal on Earth’ –
our warm Indian Ocean’s
annual spectacular of truly
epic proportions. To
discover why Hibiscus Coast
vantage positions are,
without question, the ‘best
seats in the house’ for this
panoramic blockbuster, visit
our dedicated Sardine Run
site. There you’ll find a
detailed account of vast
sardine shoals being pursued
by thousands of dolphins,
sharks, game fish and fur
seals – with the occasional
whale in attendance – while
vast squadrons of sea-birds
wheel overhead before
raining down to join the
melee.
Continuing south from
Hibberdene our journey takes
us through a stretch of
coastal bush and the
oceanside resort hamlets of
Woodgrange-on-Sea, Mzumbe,
Melville, Sunwich Port,
Bendigo, Southport and
Umtentwini, before
crossing the mouth of the
Mzimkulu – ‘Great Home of
All Rivers’. Its harbour
potential was recognised and
named Port Shepstone
in honour of a Colonial
bureaucrat, but construction
delayed until 1882. The town
was officially declared the
same year, its population of
British adventurers swelled
first by the arrival in
August 1882 of 246 Norwegian
settlers aboard the
‘Lapland’. They anchored at
night off what appeared to
be a ‘dark and uninviting
shore’, but gave thanks for
their safe arrival by
constructing a Norwegian
Settlers Church that remains
a Port Shepstone
attraction.
These Scandinavian pioneers
were soon joined by German
expatriates – who built
their Settlers Church a
little further south and
inland – plus descendants of
the Boer Voortrekkers and,
later, by entrepreneurs and
indentured sugar plantation
labourers from the Indian
subcontinent. They had
exchanged return passage for
small parcels of land.
Archaeological digs in the
area indicate that our
Zulu Kingdom’s original
inhabitants, the Stone Age
San hunter-gatherers, had
already ‘been and gone’
thousands of years earlier!
The Port Shepstone ‘boom’
inspired plans for further
development, beginning with
assembly of a present-day
National Monument – the
lighthouse cast in Britain
and shipped out in component
form. This and a second
lighthouse halfway to
Durban could not, how ever,
prevent vessels from running
aground with alarming
regularity along the entire
South Coast, and by the
railway’s arrival in Port
Shepstone on 26th July 1901,
the shipping service was
already doomed. Plans to
extend the rail service
further south were
scrapped, but for the
visitor with a fondness for
steam locomotives, another
treat nonetheless lies in
store. During the 20th
Century’s first quarter,
122- kilometres of
narrow-gauge freight link
were laid inland. Later
adapted to carry passengers,
the ‘Banana Express’ is
today a delightful meander
past rural Zulu
villages, through open
grassland, waving
plantations of sugarcane and
majestic indigenous forests.
A wonder of the natural
world, our 27-kilometre long
Oribi Gorge boasts a
history dating back to the
splitting of earth’s proto-supercontinents,
a pivotal chain of events
detailed in our Geography of
KZ-N site. Oribi Gorge
Nature Reserve is home
to 250 recorded bird
species, plus bushbuck,
reedbuck, blue and grey
duiker. You may also be
fortunate enough to see one
of the famed Big Five – a
leopard prowling its
secretive way through the
African bush!
Even more heart stopping,
perhaps, are the
Adventure Sports for which
Oribi Gorge has a global
reputation. Not least
challenging among these is a
110-metre abseil, ranked
among the world’s highest.
Additional thrills include
white water rafting and
black water tubing in the
rainy season, and year-round
wall climbing, mountain
biking and hiking trails.
The motto among these
enthusiasts reads: ‘If
you’re not living on the
edge, you’re taking up too
much space!’
Yet further inland of Oribi
Gorge, across the Oribi
Flats pioneered by Norwegian
settlers, waits the
environmental treasure trove
of the Harding district.
Referred to as ‘No- Man’s
Land’ during the era when
local tribes, Zulu
expansionists and European
opportunists each sought the
lion’s share of its natural
spoils, this remains ‘where
the eagles fly’. Beneath the
Ngele Mountain range lie our
Zulu Kingdom’s largest
indigenous forests, with the
Weza- Ngele State Forest
Nature Reserve boasting
enormous old yellow- wood t rees,
many small animals and an
encyclopaedic collection of
fantastically plumed birds.
Thanks to well- maintained
trails, the visitor can
absorb these splendours on
foot, from horseback or
mountain bike. Harding has
come a long way since 1882,
when the first hotel was
added to its three trading
stores and four private
homes!
Back in Port Shepstone, it’s
time to explore this
thriving and bustling,
multi-cultural and
amenity-filled commercial
centre of the Hibiscus
Coast. For culinary
insights into our ‘ethnic
mosaic’ there’s no better
opportunity than the annual
Gourmet Food Festival Market
in August. Year round, on
the other hand, mosques,
temples, spice- and
trinket-filled bazaars
evidence the 'Indian
influence', while the town’s
century old, picturesque
18-hole Country Club holds
the Colonial key. Welcome to
South Africa’s ‘Golf Coast’.
A course of the
‘not-too-taxing’ variety,
Port Shepstone Country Club
lies alongside the Mzimkulu
River, where plans are afoot
to incorporate an
ultra-modern marina. The
first nine holes are laid
out in wooded, challenging
terrain – a definite
contrast to the back nine’s
seaside and open, ‘links’
feel.
Port Shepstone beaches are
wide and golden, and
packed with anglers when
conditions are at their peak
– the earlier mentioned
National Monument Lighthouse
is yet another listed
‘hot-spot’ for viewing
the annual Sardine Run.
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